Harbour table

Eating in the La Maddalena archipelago means following the rhythm of boats coming back to harbour. Do not expect standard tourist menus: here the experience is tied to the place. From a gelato stop in Piazza Comando to dinner with a sea view, every meal reflects the island’s identity. Real quality is not in neon signs — it is in how fresh the Gallura ingredients are.

In La Maddalena the sea writes the menu. If you want authenticity, skip the overly polished places and walk into the old town alleys.

• What to order: Do not stick to the usual dishes. Ask for the catch of the day: dentex, amberjack, or local octopus.
• Insider tip: Historic trattorie serve unbeatable plates such as spaghetti with bottarga or fregola with seafood. If the menu is handwritten, you are probably in the right place.

Unlike many other places, in La Maddalena the real evening stroll ritual is a good artisan gelato. Gelaterie in the centre are an institution — the obligatory stop after a day on the boat or during an evening walk along Via Garibaldi.

• Local flavours: Look for Sardinian-inspired options such as myrtle, strawberry-tree honey, or toasted almond.
• Best time: Evening, when the village comes alive and the air cools. It is the perfect way to end a day among Caprera’s coves.

Sardinia has an excellent wine tradition that fits the archipelago climate perfectly.

• Vermentino di Gallura DOCG: The undisputed king — white, savoury, aromatic, best ice-cold with fish dishes.
• Cannonau: Ideal for late dinners with local meat or aged cheeses such as pecorino sardo DOP.
• Tip: Always ask for wine from Gallura cellars: proximity to the sea gives the whites a unmistakable salty note.

To really understand the island, visit the covered market in the early hours. Near the harbour, this is where residents shop.

• What to buy: Grey mullet bottarga, cheeses from inland shepherds, seasonal fruit.
• Why go: It is the best place to watch daily Maddalenino life — and to pick up tips from fishmongers on which island is most sheltered from today’s Mistral or Scirocco (essential for choosing Spargi or Caprera).